Étape 2: Etosha National Park

Etosha National Park, one of Africa’s greatest wildlife sanctuaries. Covering more than 22,000 square kilometers, it is dominated by the vast Etosha Pan—a shimmering salt flat so large it can be seen from space. Lions, elephants, leopards, rhinos, giraffes, and countless antelope species roam freely across its open savannas and acacia woodlands.

Over the next three days, we’ll cross the park from Namutoni to Olifantsrus, following its network of waterholes and wide landscapes where every stop promises a new wildlife encounter.

days

KM

animals SPOTTED

DAY 3

Namutoni

Park rules are strict and the inspections thorough. Rangers check every vehicle for plastic bags, weapons, and drones. Flying drones is forbidden throughout Etosha, and there are stories of tourists having theirs confiscated and forced to return to the gate later to collect them—a long and frustrating detour. If you travel with one, make sure it’s properly stored and that you carry the necessary authorisations.

Our first base is near Namutoni, from where we explore the surrounding waterholes: Klein Namutoni and Dik-Dik Drive.

Sunset in Etosha is unforgettable—just minutes from camp we watched zebras, wildebeest, antelopes, and giraffes gather like a real-life Jurassic Park.

Travel tip: if you’re passionate about wildlife, plan at least two nights in Namutoni. During our visit, this area was far more alive with animals compared to other parts of the park.

DAY 4

Namutoni to Olifantsrus

The park gates open at sunrise and close at sunset—times that shift daily—so always check the schedule, as arriving late can mean heavy fines or even expulsion from the park.

The gates open again at 7:05 sharp. Our route takes us west across the park, stopping at the Etosha Pan Lookout, where the salt flat stretches endlessly toward the horizon.

Soon we spot a hyena, Etosha’s bone-crushing scavenger, and a grazing white rhino—distinguished from the black rhino by its wide mouth. At Adamax waterhole, ostriches parade across the plains, while in Grünewald zebra herds mingle—both plains and mountain species, their stripes serving as camouflage and insect repellent.

By sunset, we reach Olifantsrus campsite, famous for its viewing platform. From here, we enjoy what we call the savanna cinema—a natural spectacle played out on the plains below.

DAY 5

Olifantsrus and Dolomites

Early mornings are when Etosha comes alive. Our first encounter is a curious black-backed jackal, both scavenger and hunter, followed by a family of bat-eared foxes with ears so large they can hear termites moving underground.

Driving toward Dolomite, we slow for a flap-necked chameleon crossing the road in slow motion, blending with the sand as it goes. At the camp’s waterhole, blue wildebeest roll in dust, coating themselves to ward off parasites.

Olifantsrus itself holds a more somber story. Decades ago, thousands of elephants were culled here as part of misguided conservation efforts. Today, its small museum stands as a memorial, reminding visitors how approaches to wildlife management have changed.